My bottle is empty!
Hand and Body Lotion-98% Natural
Sterilize First!
Before you begin make sure that you have a good sterile environment. Use gloves and a small amount of food safe bleach and water(1:4) to clean any bowls or pots you may use. I'm not a big fan on the use of bleach because the bleaches out there aren't pure sodium hypochlorite anymore. You can also use steam, peroxide and even high proof alcohol. Start as sterile as you can as a good precaution. Use glass, porcelain or stainless steel to mix in. If adding water make sure it's clean. Make sure whatever container you pour it into has been sterilized as well.Get a good emulsifier!
- Palm Stearic (vegetable based Stearic Acid) and Cetearyl Alcohol (vegetable based emulsifying wax)
- Palm Stearic, Polysorbate 60, and Cetearyl Alcohol
- Sorbitan Monostearate, Polysorbate 60 and Cetearyl Alcohol
- Sorbitan Monostearate, Polysorbate 60
Preservatives? Absolutely!
You
also must add some type of preservative to be safe. If you mix a lotion with no
preservatives in it, you risk all types of infection-staff, yeast, fungi,
bacteria, molds. It isn't worth it believe me! I'd also go with a newer type of
preservative the Germaben, Germaben II,
Phenonip, Methyparaben and other types such as Germall and LiquaPar Oil have
been tested and found wanting, thus the upgrades. I personally use optiphen
plus and have never had any issues. You can go to LotionCrafters online, Ingredients
to Die For, Wholesale Supplies Plus or Camden Gray for good preservatives. I
you seek you will find Citricide, Cosmocil CQ, Optiphen Plus or
Geogard Ultra at low cost. A small bottle will last for many batches of
lotion! Stay safe! You can honestly say you're making 98% natural hand lotion!
:)
Natural preservatives are mostly antioxidants and will only
last 3-6 months at best and they can still fail.
They include:
- Benzoin Powder (never more than .25%)-can be a skin irritant
- Ceylon or Cassia Cinnamon-works best combined with Potassium Sorbate (add a dash to 1/4 teaspoon of each)
- Citric Acid-add to water after it is cooling, right before mixing oils .05-.3% This keeps the PH of the lotion lower.
- Geranium Essential Oil-1 drop per every 2 oz of lotion, add it during the final mixing stage right before bottling.
- Goldenseal, or Grapefruit Seed Extract-.5-1%-add it during the final mixing stage right before bottling.
- Green Tea Extracts-.5-3%-add it during the final mixing stage right before bottling.
- Rosemary Oil Extract-not the same as Rosemary Essential Oil, it is very thick and overpowering! - add at .1-.5% during the final mixing stage right before bottling.
- E T-50 Mixed Tocopherol Oil-add at .05-.5% -add it during the final mixing stage right before bottling.
Thickeners and other add ins:
You can also use thickeners, stabilizers and all sorts of add ins like hydrolyzed silk, botanicals, oat protein, corn starch,arrow root-tried it, eh, I didn't see any difference, dimethicone, and on and on! I got lost looking at this stuff and went with NO add ins! LOL! Google it and you will see what I mean! You could spend a fortune and end up with a totally non-natural lotion! Pass! I can buy that in any store- ;) Give me fresh goat milk or hemp milk and I'm good!
Okay we're all set!
Sharpen up your calculator, here is what I use for my lotions:
Ingredients: (use weight not volume)
- 30% of any type of oils (Shea, Coconut, Olive, Argan, Sesame, etc.)
- 60% liquid-can be tea, water, aloe vera, milks
- 8% Emulsifier (you can adjust this 5-8%)
- 2% Preservative
Directions:
- Melt/warm your oils and ewax and bring to 170 degrees C in a clean glass, porcelain or stainless steel pot. Hold for 20 minutes.
- Heat your liquid solution 170 degrees C, if using tea let it cool to this temp. Use a thermometer if in doubt! Hold for 20 minutes. (I use a point and aim digital thermometer from Harbor Freight)
- Pour your oils into glass mixing bowl or stainless steel pot ( I have a great set from Harbor Freight), set your mixer at a low speed and slowly pour the hot liquid in. I use a drill and paint stirrer. (you can also use a blender)
- Continue mixing for a few minutes. Take breaks and keep mixing until the lotion cools enough to add your preservative. You should see a nice thin lotion. Keep covered in between to keep it from losing too much liquid through evaporation.
- Add in your preservatives (your preserverative will have a temperature its safe to add-I use Phenoxyethanol/ Caprylyl Glycol/ Sorbic Acid which is safe to add at 140 degrees). Stir manually to get any air bubbles out of the mixture.
- Once the mixture has cooled enough for your bottles (my bottles handle 120 degrees without problem), measure out your portions, add your fragrance oils and pour it into your bottles. I use plastic measuring cups to add the fragrance and pour from. It will thicken more as it finishes cooling. Watch for separation and shake bottles if necessary.
There is an eye make up remover I make that works great too. It contains:
- aloe vera
- witch hazel
- a tiny amount of sesame oil (it is lighter than most oils)
Fill bottle 45 % with aloe, 45% witch hazel and 10% sesame oil.
To use: shake vigorously and put a few drops on a cotton ball. Use on closed eyelid to remove waterproof mascara or lips to remove 24 hour lipstick. Wash face as usual.
It works great on my waterproof mascara. I use very little oil in the mix because there are little bugs that eat oil called mites. Most people have them. Google eyelash bugs it if you don't believe me! If I can find an ingredient that works that isn't an oil I will use it! Wipe away make-up, then you can wash your face as usual with your all natural soap! If you don't have some go visit my Ebay or Etsy store for a good soap! :)
See ya soon!
Marla
MJR Soaps
Update: I started using Norwex in 2014 and have no need for any type of make up remover! They have microfiber make up remover wash cloths that work excellent! I use the cloth and then wash my face as usual. I can go soap free too if I want but I like how my skin feels using my aloe hibiscus soap! Check out Norwex-it's still fairly new to the USA.